Surprising Brittany

Pirates on the rampage in Saint-Malo during its annual Pirate Festival

The Unexpected Surprises That Await Visitors in Brittany

If you’ve never been to Brittany, you might picture sketchy weather, rugged coasts, and a language you can’t understand, much less try to pronounce. And sure, that tracks a little bit. But the truth is, Brittany is full of surprises—the kind that make you wonder why you didn’t come sooner. Whether you’re sailing its shoreline or exploring inland by foot or bike, Brittany doesn’t just meet expectations, it exceeds them, often in the most unexpected ways.

1. Caribbean-Blue Waters and White-Sand Beaches

Wait—this is France? You have to be kidding! Many first-time visitors are stunned by the clarity of the water around the Glénan Islands or Belle-Île. With turquoise shallows and white sandbars, these places look more like Tahiti than the North Atlantic. Seriously. Pack your snorkel.

What did we just tell you? The Glénan Islands in summer.

2. An Entirely Different Language and Culture

Like several other regions of Europe, Brittany has its own language—Breton—and its own customs, music, dance, and even crêpes (galettes, technically). From bilingual street signs to traditional fest-noz dances in village squares, you’ll feel like you’ve crossed into another country. (Because, historically, you kind of have.) Every August, QBE checks in at the Interceltic Festival in Lorient where thousands of people from all over the Celtic world—Ireland, Wales, Cornwall, Scotland, Galicia, etc.— show up and put on a great show, bagpipes and all.

Lorient Interceltic Festival 2025—a stolen moment Image ©Eric Duriez

3. A Coastline That Changes Before Your Eyes

Thanks to an extreme tidal range—sometimes exceeding 14 meters around Saint-Malo (one of the highest in Europe)—the coastline of Brittany literally transforms itself over the course of several hours. One moment you’re scrambling across rocks to reach a a patch of high ground;“ a few hours later, that high ground might be an island, surrounded completely by water. Or it may not be an island at all! It's a magic trick of nature—and a surprising daily revelation.

4. Warm Welcomes in Chilly Places

Don’t be fooled by the bracing wind or sometimes gruff exteriors: the Bretons are famously warm once you break the ice. Expect generosity, good humor, and plenty of stories, especially if you show interest in their culture—or ask for a good cider recommendation.

5. Castles, Forts, and Pirates (Yes, Pirates!)

Brittany’s history is written in stone—from medieval ramparts in Concarneau to 17th-century forts guarding quaint harbors. And if you visit Saint-Malo, you’ll see four offshore forts and ramparts designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, Louis XIV’s famous military architect—constructed in the early 18th century by Siméon Garangeau, the fortifications engineer, architect, and votary of the renowned 17th-century master. The Tour Dorée in Camaret-sur-Mer, built by Vauban, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the eastern tip of the Crozon Peninsula. Much of Brittany’s coastline has a swashbuckling past, replete with corsairs, sea battles, and (so they say) buried treasure. Good luck finding some. If you visit Saint-Malo in late September, you can witness their annual Pirate Festival—and take the opportunity to shiver some timbers!
Ar-r-r-r-r! 🏴‍☠️

6. King Arthur and Merlin

But wait, they were both as British as Shakespeare, right? Well, it depends on whom you ask. According to Breton lore, Arthur didn’t die on the battlefield but was carried across the Channel to the enchanted forest of Brocéliande, an actual place in Brittany. And there, beneath ancient oaks and springs reported to have magical powers, Merlin the wizard supposedly walked, prophesied, and loved, before being imprisoned in an invisible tower by the fairy Viviane. He is said to buried in a tomb just north of the Paimpont State Forest. And then there is—or was—the French Excalibur, a sword known as Durandel, that was lodged in the side of a cliff in Rocamadour for over 1,300 years (that’s their story and they’re stickin’ to it! ). Said to have been the sword of Roland, Charlemagne’s legendary paladin, somebody had to scale 100 feet up a rock face to purloin it in 2024. If you happen to know where it might be, the mayor would like it back (even if it is really just a replica. Sh-h-h-h).

Merlin’s tomb Image: © Raphodon

7. Real Adventure, Not Just Sightseeing

Brittany isn’t the kind of place you “do” with a checklist. It’s is best explored slowly—by boat, by bike, or on foot. You’ll miss the best parts if you stick to highways or big-name destinations. Venture off the beaten path and you’ll find plenty of prehistoric megaliths, tidal islands, goat tracks to amazing secret beaches, and unexpected beauty around every bend.

So What’s the Biggest Surprise?

Maybe It’s how deeply Brittany leaves a lasting impression. Maybe it’s the light. Maybe it’s the contrast between ancient and wild. But long after you go home, you’ll find yourself thinking about the charm-blessed harbor towns, the pervasive reminders of its rich history, and the dazzling sunsets over its wide, empty beaches. Then again… maybe your fondest memory will be the spectacular sailing!!

Why Sailing the Breton Coast Is worth getting wet from time to time

There’s a reason sailors will tell you Brittany is one of Europe’s most rewarding yachting areas, even though occasional downpours and unpredictable winds can spoil an otherwise pleasant day on the water. The Breton coast doesn’t offer the easy glamour of the Mediterranean or the Margaritaville vibe of the Caribbean. What it offers is something more textured: untamed beauty; a rich, storied history; and the kind of unique adventure that lingers in your memory. Enduring a few rainy days, though sometimes dispiriting, is simply a rite of passage.

Yes, the weather in Brittany is famously fickle. One hour you’re enjoying bright summer sunshine glistening on the water and illuminating the impressive granite cliffs rising from the sea; the next, you’re stranded in a thick fog akin to something out of Celtic myth. But for those willing to lean into the constant uncertainty—including getting chilly and wet on occasion—a sailing expedition along Brittany’s jagged coastlines is nothing short of magical.

The Wild Beauty of the Coastline

Brittany is a world of extraordinary contrasts. Its coastline is riddled with hidden coves, dramatic rock formations, and historic fishing villages. The pink Granite Coast along the northern part of the peninsula can glow at sunset. And the Gulf of Morbihan feels like a secret inland sea with its surprisingly beautiful islands featuring South Pacific-like white sand beaches accessible only by boat. Meanwhile, the tides are among the most extreme in Europe, shifting the seascape from hour to hour and making navigation often challenging.

A Cultural Legacy Like few Others

This is a region where seafaring runs in the blood. Every port has a story. In Concarneau and Saint-Malo, the old town walls reverberate with the echoes of corsairs. Douarnenez still smells faintly of sardine oil and revolution. Locals speak Breton (a Celtic language akin to Cornish, Welsh, Irish, Manx, and Scottish Gaelic) as well as French, and maritime festivals—complete with traditional tall ships, gaff-rig boats, and bagpipes—are common in summer months. In fact, QBE usually shows up for the famous Interceltic [cultural] Festival held every August in Lorient. Two years ago, our cutters were chosen to feature in a TV documentary about the annual event.

Learning to Trust the Sea

There’s no better classroom for seamanship than the always-changeable Channel and Bay of Biscay off the Breton coast. You learn to read the sky, the swell, and the wind. You learn to respect the power of nature and to take satisfaction in small triumphs—perfect sail trim, a clean tack, or simply the warmth of a galley meal after a rainy watch.

This isn’t a relaxing holiday cruise—it’s an exhilarating experience. And with every challenge comes the thrill of having met it.

When the Sun Does Come Out…

When the clouds part, Brittany is absolutely radiant. The light is clear, the sea turns a painter’s palette of greens and blues, and the lighthouses seem especially welcoming. You’ll eat crêpes in seaside cafés, discover the area’s authentic patrimony, and sleep at anchor under starlit skies where the only sound is the creak of the rigging and the soft slap of waves on the hull.

Worth the Risk?

We say “Absolutely!” Sailing Brittany is not for the faint of heart—but that’s exactly the point. In the end, it’s the rain that makes the sun shine brighter, the challenges that make the rewards richer. One thing’s for sure—when you get home, you’ll have earned the right to call yourself a bona fide sailor.

August 2023 Expedition Update—Île de Houat

2023 QBE sailing expeditions—Ile de Houat

We departed Pornichet on Monday, spent a day exploring the Ile de Houat, and now head to Lorient, where we’ll take part in the 2023 «Festival Interceltique» on Wednesday (9 August). French television inform us they intend to shoot video of our grand entrance (our boats are, after all, replicas of a 19th-century Breton pilot cutter), and we’ve been invited to march in the parade. Mairéad, one of our Irish crew members, brought along her “fiddle.”

In the past, we’ve had other participants bring their instruments, including Breton bagpipes. We make quite a spectacle when one of our teens stands up and pipes us into port. Everybody crowds around to get a good look and snap pics.