Surprising Brittany

Pirates on the rampage in Saint-Malo during its annual Pirate Festival

The Unexpected Surprises That Await Visitors in Brittany

If you’ve never been to Brittany, you might picture sketchy weather, rugged coasts, and a language you can’t understand, much less try to pronounce. And sure, that tracks a little bit. But the truth is, Brittany is full of surprises—the kind that make you wonder why you didn’t come sooner. Whether you’re sailing its shoreline or exploring inland by foot or bike, Brittany doesn’t just meet expectations, it exceeds them, often in the most unexpected ways.

1. Caribbean-Blue Waters and White-Sand Beaches

Wait—this is France? You have to be kidding! Many first-time visitors are stunned by the clarity of the water around the Glénan Islands or Belle-Île. With turquoise shallows and white sandbars, these places look more like Tahiti than the North Atlantic. Seriously. Pack your snorkel.

 

What did we just tell you? The Glénan Islands in summer.

 

2. An Entirely Different Language and Culture

Like several other regions of Europe, Brittany has its own language—Breton—and its own customs, music, dance, and even crêpes (galettes, technically). From bilingual street signs to traditional fest-noz dances in village squares, you’ll feel like you’ve crossed into another country. (Because, historically, you kind of have.) Every August, QBE checks in at the Interceltic Festival in Lorient where thousands of people from all over the Celtic world—Ireland, Wales, Cornwall, Scotland, Galicia, etc.— show up and put on a great show, bagpipes and all.

 

Lorient Interceltic Festival 2025—a stolen moment Image ©Eric Duriez

 

3. A Coastline That Changes Before Your Eyes

Thanks to an extreme tidal range—sometimes exceeding 14 meters around Saint-Malo (one of the highest in Europe)—the coastline of Brittany literally transforms itself over the course of several hours. One moment you’re scrambling across rocks to reach a a patch of high ground;“ a few hours later, that high ground might be an island, surrounded completely by water. Or it may not be an island at all! It's a magic trick of nature—and a surprising daily revelation.

4. Warm Welcomes in Chilly Places

Don’t be fooled by the bracing wind or sometimes gruff exteriors: the Bretons are famously warm once you break the ice. Expect generosity, good humor, and plenty of stories, especially if you show interest in their culture—or ask for a good cider recommendation.

5. Castles, Forts, and Pirates (Yes, Pirates!)

Brittany’s history is written in stone—from medieval ramparts in Concarneau to 17th-century forts guarding quaint harbors. And if you visit Saint-Malo, you’ll see four offshore forts and ramparts designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, Louis XIV’s famous military architect—constructed in the early 18th century by Siméon Garangeau, the fortifications engineer, architect, and votary of the renowned 17th-century master. The Tour Dorée in Camaret-sur-Mer, built by Vauban, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the eastern tip of the Crozon Peninsula. Much of Brittany’s coastline has a swashbuckling past, replete with corsairs, sea battles, and (so they say) buried treasure. Good luck finding some. If you visit Saint-Malo in late September, you can witness their annual Pirate Festival—and take the opportunity to shiver some timbers!
Ar-r-r-r-r! 🏴‍☠️

6. King Arthur and Merlin

But wait, they were both as British as Shakespeare, right? Well, it depends on whom you ask. According to Breton lore, Arthur didn’t die on the battlefield but was carried across the Channel to the enchanted forest of Brocéliande, an actual place in Brittany. And there, beneath ancient oaks and springs reported to have magical powers, Merlin the wizard supposedly walked, prophesied, and loved, before being imprisoned in an invisible tower by the fairy Viviane. He is said to buried in a tomb just north of the Paimpont State Forest. And then there is—or was—the French Excalibur, a sword known as Durandel, that was lodged in the side of a cliff in Rocamadour for over 1,300 years (that’s their story and they’re stickin’ to it! ). Said to have been the sword of Roland, Charlemagne’s legendary paladin, somebody had to scale 100 feet up a rock face to purloin it in 2024. If you happen to know where it might be, the mayor would like it back (even if it is really just a replica. Sh-h-h-h).

 

Merlin’s tomb Image: © Raphodon

 

7. Real Adventure, Not Just Sightseeing

Brittany isn’t the kind of place you “do” with a checklist. It’s is best explored slowly—by boat, by bike, or on foot. You’ll miss the best parts if you stick to highways or big-name destinations. Venture off the beaten path and you’ll find plenty of prehistoric megaliths, tidal islands, goat tracks to amazing secret beaches, and unexpected beauty around every bend.

So What’s the Biggest Surprise?

Maybe It’s how deeply Brittany leaves a lasting impression. Maybe it’s the light. Maybe it’s the contrast between ancient and wild. But long after you go home, you’ll find yourself thinking about the charm-blessed harbor towns, the pervasive reminders of its rich history, and the dazzling sunsets over its wide, empty beaches. Then again… maybe your fondest memory will be the spectacular sailing!!

Along the way: Pornichet

This year, Pornichet—situated on France’s Loire-Atlantique coastline, just 15 minutes by car from Saint-Nazaire—is the disembarkation destination for our July expedition as well as the embarkation point for our August cruise. It’s an under-the-radar gem on the French Côte d’Amour.

Pornichet was transformed from a sleepy little fishing village into a trendy seaside spa in the mid‑19th century. Today, it’s a hot-list summer destination that blends some old-world elegance with a modern laid-back resort vibe. The name itself comes from the Latin "Port Niché," meaning "nested port."

The upscale resort town is known for it’s expansive golden beaches. The largest and most popular one stretches all the way to neighboring La Baule. It's perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or sailing, and the famous beachfront promenade is lined with cafés and seafood restaurants.

Worth a visit:

  • The Port de Plaisance (the Marina)
    Pornichet's modern marina is a hub for sailing and the motor yacht crowd, offering excellent facilities as well as boat rentals and excursions. It’s also a great spot to people-watch with a glass of… whatever.

  • Île la Pierre‑Percée
    A rocky islet known as 'seagull island' features an impressive natural arch. Local lore says a pirate named Gilles Daviot chiseled it out after being marooned there.

  • Chapelle Sainte‑Anne
    This neo‑Romanesque chapel, built in 1879 at Pointe du Bec, features a vaulted boat‑hull-shaped nave. Every summer, locals hold a candlelight procession from the chapel to “the Old Port.” On 20 July this year, there will be a “Fête de la Mer Sainte-Anne”—including a mass on the beach at La Baule to commemorate all those who have been lost at sea. BTW: Ann is a patron saint of Brittany.

  • Villa Ker  Souveraine (“Villa des Sirènes”)
    Erected in 1925 in Italian neoclassical style, the imposing villa was designed by celebrated local architect Georges Vachon with interior decoration by Adrien Grave. Its facade is adorned with four sirens. Once frequented by celebrities, the villa is now a historic monument.

  • Hippodrome de Pornichet
    Unique for a small coastal town, Pornichet has its own equestrian track. The current complex dates back to the early 20th century. The Hippodrome hosts horse races throughout the year.

  • Scenic Trails & Seafront Promenade
    Two heritage trails take visitors past elegant villas and other impressive seaside architecture. The coastal “Sentier des Douaniers” is famous for its breathtaking views. The Promenade is known for its roller-skating nights!

  • Local Markets & the Marina Scene
    Visitors usually want to check out the outdoor markets at Les Halles for seafood, pastries, and regional specialties. The buzzing marina is a hub for sailing, boat tours, and summer festivals.